Mahasthangarh: The Timeless Citadel of Bengal’s Ancient Glory
Nestled on the banks of the serene Karatoya River in Bogura district, Bangladesh, lies Mahasthangarh — the oldest archaeological site in the country and a silent witness to millennia of human civilization. With its rich history dating back to at least the 3rd century BCE, Mahasthangarh stands as a testament to the region’s enduring cultural, political, and economic significance. For history enthusiasts, adventurers, or anyone curious about the ancient roots of Bengal, Mahasthangarh offers a journey into a world long past, yet ever fascinating.
The Origins: Pundranagara, the Capital of Pundravardhana
Mahasthangarh was known in antiquity as Pundranagara, the capital city of the historical kingdom of Pundravardhana. The city finds mention in ancient Sanskrit and Pali texts, including the Mahabharata, Buddhist scriptures, and accounts by travelers. This ancient metropolis served as an important administrative, commercial, and cultural hub.
The name Mahasthangarh itself roughly translates to “great place of sanctity.” The site encompasses an area of about 5 square kilometers, with a fortified citadel covering 1.5 square kilometers. This elevated platform, built with brick ramparts, protected the inner city from floods and invasions, and its remnants still rise nearly 15 feet above the surrounding plain.
A Walk Through Time: Archaeological Riches
Excavations at Mahasthangarh have unearthed layers upon layers of history, stretching across the Maurya, Gupta, Pala, and Sena dynasties, and even up to the Muslim period. The earliest discoveries, such as punch-marked coins, terracotta plaques, and Northern Black Polished Ware (NBPW), point to a bustling urban settlement as early as the 3rd century BCE.
Among the remarkable finds are:
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The Govinda Bhita Temple: Just north of the citadel lies Govinda Bhita, the ruins of a small Hindu temple dating from the 6th century. It reveals the prevalence of Hindu worship alongside Buddhist practices in the region.
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The Bairagir Bhita, Parasuramer Bhita, and Mankalir Kunda: These mounds inside and around the citadel yielded sculptures, inscriptions, and structural remains, shedding light on the religious diversity and sophisticated urban planning.
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Inscriptions and Seals: Stone inscriptions in Brahmi, Sanskrit, and later scripts give valuable insights into the administration, land grants, and religious endowments of various periods.
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Artifacts of Daily Life: Pottery, beads, ornaments, iron tools, and even bone dice hint at the lively day-to-day existence of Mahasthangarh’s inhabitants.
The site is often compared to other great ancient cities of South Asia like Taxila and Pataliputra for its scale and historical significance.
The Citadel: Fortress of Power
The most striking feature of Mahasthangarh is its massive defensive wall. Built primarily of baked bricks, this fortification is nearly 5 meters wide at places and originally stood much higher. Four main gates are believed to have allowed controlled access, with bastions placed at intervals for defense.
The citadel was strategically designed to withstand both military threats and seasonal flooding from the Karatoya. The surrounding moat and the proximity to the river added natural defenses.
Legends abound regarding secret underground passages, hidden treasures, and curses associated with attempts to loot them — all of which add to Mahasthangarh’s mystique.
Mahasthangarh in Myth and Literature
Mythology and folklore further enhance Mahasthangarh’s allure. It is linked to the legend of Behula and Lakhindar, a tragic love story deeply woven into the cultural fabric of Bengal. According to some interpretations, the palace of Chand Sadagar, the wealthy merchant father-in-law of Behula, was located here.
Ancient epics like the Mahabharata also refer to Pundranagara as one of the prominent cities. This overlap of history and myth invites endless speculation and wonder.
From Buddhism to Islam: A Continuum of Faiths
Mahasthangarh’s long history also charts the religious evolution of Bengal. Archaeological finds indicate that it was once a center of Buddhism, evident from votive stupas and Buddhist sculptures. Later, during the Pala and Sena periods, Hinduism thrived, as seen in temples and statues of deities.
With the arrival of Muslim rulers in Bengal, mosques and tombs appeared in the surrounding area. One notable monument is the Shah Sultan Balkhi Mahisawar’s shrine, dedicated to a Sufi saint believed to have arrived here from Balkh (Afghanistan) on horseback across the skies. This site continues to draw devotees and visitors, exemplifying the syncretic cultural spirit of Bengal.
A Visit to Mahasthangarh Today
Modern visitors to Mahasthangarh can explore both the archaeological site and the small but impressive Mahasthangarh Museum, which displays many of the excavated items, including statues, coins, and terracotta plaques.
Walking through the ramparts, one can imagine the bustling streets, the markets filled with merchants from distant lands, and the vibrant ceremonies held in its temples. The surrounding landscape, with the Karatoya flowing by and green fields stretching to the horizon, adds a picturesque backdrop to this ancient citadel.
Local guides often narrate both the historical facts and the enchanting legends, making the experience vivid and memorable.
The Importance of Preservation
Mahasthangarh is more than just an archaeological site; it is a vital link to Bangladesh’s ancient identity and a source of pride for its people. Unfortunately, like many heritage sites, it faces threats from weathering, encroachment, and lack of sufficient conservation funding.
Efforts by the Bangladesh Department of Archaeology, UNESCO, and various scholars continue to document and preserve this invaluable heritage. However, greater awareness among locals and tourists alike is essential to protect Mahasthangarh for future generations.
Conclusion: Echoes of the Past
Mahasthangarh stands today as a silent sentinel over centuries of human endeavor, a place where history, legend, and natural beauty come together. Visiting this ancient site is not merely a journey through ruins, but a profound connection to the roots of civilization in Bengal.
Whether you are a lover of history, a seeker of stories, or simply someone drawn by the mysteries of the past, Mahasthangarh offers a glimpse into a world that has shaped the present in countless unseen ways. It invites us all to pause, reflect, and marvel at the passage of time — reminding us that while empires may fall, their stories endure in the earth beneath our feet.
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